There will be another Rustico - though not called Rustico, and with a different menu. So maybe it’s not a new Rustico per se… but all the same, we are the team that will be working hard to open it as soon as we can. So here are the FAQ’s with the new place, so as to get them out of the way:

Where is the new restaurant?
Near Logan Circle in Downtown DC. The address will be 1337 14th St. N.W., but I have not yet been to the new location.

What is the name of the new place going to be?
I just learned that it’s going to be called “Birch & Barley” as well as “Churchkey”. The downstairs will be Birch & Barley - the restaurant, and the upstairs will be Churchkey, the bar. So, in a track similar to Rustico, there will be a divide between the two sections, but this will be more distinct as it will be separate floors, and have different names.

Are you going to be working at the new place, or stay at Rustico?
As far as I can tell, I will be working at both. I’ll be working hard to keep Rustico running in the mornings, but at the same time, all of the skills I have picked up in setting up and getting the restaurant running daily will have to be transferred over to the new place as well. I’m helping to create an operating manual for the new place based on how we do things at Rustico, and who better to help implement it than the guy who wrote it, right? But nothing is set in stone. Simply put, I’m gonna go where they need me, and where they ask me to be.

This has nothing to do with the story, it’s just what I was listening to while typing this. And it’s an awesome album.

But the point of this story is to talk about the surprise demo menu that I suddenly had foisted upon me a few days ago. We need to get a menu together for this new place, and of course Chef has several ideas. The problem was, he wanted to try them all out at once. On a Saturday. Without telling me.

All I knew was, the day before we were to put it all together, I was greeted with a huge list of new dishes to attempt to make, new foods I had to bring in, and I had to get as much of it together and ready while still working a Friday and Saturday set-up.

This was an interesting position to be put in. On the one hand, it was confusing and tiring to cook all these new foods I had never worked on while handling a busy kitchen. But on the other hand, it was awesome to be making all these new dishes after making a lot of the same things for a year. The thought that there will be a whole new menu to develop and work on is about the most exciting thing to come along in some time!

And let me say, even though these were just the rough drafts, the food was darn good! You’ll all have to come by when we are open!

Chef Matt

Those of you who read regularly will recall I had to do this just 2 weeks ago on a Saturday night. A hard experience for sure as I had never worked this station before at all. This time, it was a Sunday night - usually a slower night - so I expected that since I had already experienced my trial by fire, this would be a cakewalk.

The cake walk. This doesn’t look easy at all… why would we think this means the same as “simple”?…

Of course that’s not the case. (If it were, I probably wouldn’t be writing about it, now would I?…)

The simple fact is, the pizza station is always a station where I always feel like I’m one step behind the orders. Just when I think I’m catching up, making a few pizzas that are on order, so I can have some breathing room, I get hit with an order for 4 more that have to be made right away. It is a 3-hour non-stop parade of orders that just never lets go, and never allows me the chance to feel like I have a “comfortable” lead. The only moment of comfort is the very beginning. I usually have about 20 crusts already laid out and ready to go, so I’m feeling good.

It’s amazing how fast that crust “buffer” disappears.

The rest of the night is just ticket after ticket with pizzas galore on them - and often I find myself stretching the crusts to order, instead of having them ready to go ahead of time. And let’s not forget the toppings! All the toppings are prepped ahead of time, but I am constantly running out of them, and having to re-stock my line from my low-boy with more.

Pizza goes in, pizza comes out, repeat many, many times.

So the night is a blur of pulling crusts, topping pizzas, hauling out more crusts from the walk-in, restocking my toppings, managing all the tickets and barking out orders to the guy manning the pizza oven as to which pizzas go with what, which ones are to go, and which ones need special toppings when the come out of the oven. It’s a lot to keep in your head all at once, and in the heat of a professional kitchen in August while working the second consecutive shift, it’s downright exhausting.

But you know what? It’s also the single most fun station to work in the whole darn kitchen. I loved every minute of it! When the dinner rush was winding down, I was finally able to prep all the pizzas we had tickets for, and I even pulled two extra crusts for the station. I looked at my partner and said, “All the pizzas are prepped, you have two extra crusts, I’ve been on my feet for 14 hours now…. good night and good luck.” He of course replied, “Yeah man, thanks for the help, now get the heck out of here!”

As I slumped down at the bar for my shift beer, the manager came up to me and asked what I was still doing there. “Why did you work that station after working the grill this morning?” “If it were any other station, I may have tried to go home - but the pizza station, it doesn’t seem like work at all. It’s the most fun you can have here.”

That is, aside from enjoying my shift beer and watching the Phillies game, which of course is what I did next.

Chef Matt

I was cleaning one of the shelves the other day and an unmistakable and unfortunately all-too-ubiquitous face was staring back at me from the spine of one of the books. One of her cookbooks had somehow managed to infest my cookbook rack.

I was going to doctor the cover photo, but then realized, I couldn’t make it look any stupider if I tried…

“What the hell is this?!?” I asked to anyone who could hear holding the book between two fingers as if it were some manner of rotting mammal.

“Oh, that was a gift someone gave me - I guess as a joke…” said one of my cooks.

“And so you brought it here?…”

“Yeah, I don’t really want it, so you can do whatever with it…”

Seeing as how this cookbook (and I use that term loosely) has been darkening my shelf for too long now, I think it is time to actually do something with it. So does anyone out there have any good suggestions as to what to do with it?

Should I actually try cooking from it and report on the recipes to you all?
Give it as a gag gift to a fellow chef friend?
Burn it and see if it smells like too much cumin?

Any and all suggestions are welcome! And whatever we decide upon, of course I will report on the results back here to you all!

Chef Matt

This is a tad off-topic, so I’ll be brief.

As many of you know, and have enjoyed talking to me about, I graced my left shoulder with a pig tattoo a little over a year ago. It’s a decision that I’ve neither regretted nor second-guessed even once in the time I’ve had it. However, there was one unintended consequence of this action.

I was unable to be a blood donor in the past year having gotten the tattoo. Now, I’m not saying that people should avoid getting tattoos for the sake of remaining in the blood donation pool, but for those of you who have not gotten one in the past year, please call the Red Cross (1-800-GIVE-LIFE) and schedule an appointment.

I’m now eligible again, and yesterday I donated a double unit of platelets, and I plan on going back again in two weeks.

Someone you love, at sometime in their life, will need blood in some form. I wish it weren’t the case, but I guarantee it.

Please be thankful for your good health, and then pass on this blessing to those who are less fortunate. Someday, it might be you who needs this help. And if you’re counting on me to save you, well, I may be off getting another tattoo…

Please give.

Chef Matt

This is gonna be bad…

A few weeks later, as I was reworking the schedule for some of my staff, Chef told me that he was going to be out the upcoming Friday and Saturday for family reasons. Of course he didn’t need my permission, but I knew I would have to work it into the schedule to make sure we covered for him. (First drops of rain beginning to fall…)

I walk in on Saturday morning, and see a note in the chef’s log book that my PM sauté chef would be out on Sunday for family reasons, and one of my sous chefs had agreed to cover for him. (Radio stations interrupting broadcasts with instructions…)

Saturday afternoon comes around, and as we are preparing for the dinner shift, I’m working on my paperwork and order forms in the office. One of the other sous chefs walks in and says “I sending D—- home.” D—- is our evening pantry chef who has been a constant problem child for us. Her work is generally good, but she is always giving us static and attitude in conjunction with her performance. She finally decided that today she would not make a dessert for a customer when we asked her to (seeing as how it’s her job) as she would rather set up her station. This is not an acceptable course of action for her, and while this would mean we would be down two people in the kitchen on a Saturday night, I was ready to handle it. I stopped my paperwork in the middle of my invoices, and worked the pizza station on a Saturday night as we moved the person usually in that position over to pantry. (Locals head for their tornado shelters….)

As a side note to this story: I had never worked pizza on a Saturday before where I was the one making the pizzas and putting them in the oven. I have worked as the guy cooking the pizzas in the over several times, and it is actually fun. But rolling crusts and topping every pie as the orders come flying in - that is a whole new level of tough, and the whole shift is just me barely keeping my head above water. By the time I got out of there, I had put in 14 hours on my feet with no real break. And I had to be back in the next morning at 8AM. (Old man walking by with two giraffes, two hippos, two lions…)

Hmmm… what’s missing from this kitchen? Oh yeah! All my fricking cooks!

Sunday comes by and as I’m setting up, I take stock of my line for that evening. My pizza cook is out on vacation. My sauté chef is out for family reasons, and my pantry cook is suspended/quit. In a line that usually has 5 people on it for the busy Sunday night rush, I have exactly two people. And I had friends coming in from out of town, and was so tired I was basically dead on my feet.

Let the rain begin to fall!

So how does one get out of this situation? I put one sous chef on sauté, the other on pizza. So now we were down one person. And this is where the magic of the kitchen community shows up. One person leaves one day, the very next day, someone brings in their cousin/niece/friend to fill that position. Our new-commer was ready to work, and proved to be a fast learner as well. We cobbled together her paperwork and threw her on the line as fast as we could, and she did great. Personally, I hung around until about 8 (a mere 12 hour day) to make sure that everything was running smoothly for the dinner rush, and that we were past the first major push. We made it through, and I went home to await the arrival of my friends.

It was an all-encompassing kind of tired I felt as I walked in the door of my house. If I could just be spared a mere 10 minutes to get it back together, I figured I’d be fine. I opened my laptop to maybe see a funny video or something, and a notification popped up before I could do anything else:

July 20th is the anniversary of my first day being a professional chef. It has now been two years since I began working in kitchens.

I chuckled to myself, closed the laptop, put my head down, and slept until my friends arrived.

Chef Matt

For those of you not from the DC area, Holly Morris the reporter who goes out “on location” every morning and talks about cool things going on in the DC area with a perkiness and enthusiasm usually reserved for cheer-leading captains and exercise video instructors. This was my chance to meet her in person, and actually be on TV in the process.

Well, of course I would not be the featured presenter. Chef Frank would of course (deservedly) be taking center stage on this broadcast, but as the usual morning chef, I would be there as well to help prep the food we were going to be making on air, and to ensure that everything ran smoothly between segments.

The focus of the show was how we featured a pizza class at Rustico, and so there was a lot of making of pizza dough and special pizzas with “challenge” ingredients. Chef was awesome in front of the cameras - he has had experience in this - and I was there to look like I was just along for the class. Well, I’m sure you want to see how it went, so without further delay, here are the clips:

Clip 1 - In this clip my job was to work the pizza crust like a student. Though I had to go slowly since we had 4 minutes, and I had only two crusts in front of me. Otherwise, my job was to STFU.

Clip 2 - In this clip, it was originally planned that I make the (very delicious!) strawberry pizza. Instead, in a last-second change Chef had me work the pizza oven behind him. I was making back-ups of all the pizzas you see there in case something went really wrong (read: dropped on the floor). All went well, so those pizzas I was making ended up feeding the crew.

So this is probably the most time I have ever had on TV. No, it’s true, my life just hasn’t been that newsworthy to date. And even though I didn’t have any lines, I still managed to mess up. Take a look at the beginning of clip 2 again. I did a glance over my shoulder to see if the camera was on me, and I determined it was not, so I took that moment to fix my hair. And it was all caught on TV. The instructor who taught me food safety in culinary school is likely gritting his teeth still.

I was not offered any lucrative TV deals to get my own cooking show as a result of this debut, but the experience did inspire me nonetheless.

Yesterday, I got a haircut.

Chef Matt

And so it was with a small sense of anticipation that I was awaiting the arrival of our new extern to Rustico this past week. Chef told me that we couldn’t throw this one directly on the line (like we did our last extern) since this guy had exactly zero days of kitchen experience. Like me, he was fresh out of culinary school, and having been in this exact position myself, I knew that this meant he knew squat. Chef seemed to realize that I understood what this guy was going to be going through, and what he was going to need to get up to speed, so Chef scheduled him to mirror my working days - so I could show him the ropes.

He walked in the first day - 20 minutes early, good sign - and I gave him the line that I wish someone had said to me on my first day:

“You’re going to mess up these first few weeks. Frequently and badly. And we will not be afraid to let you know when you do. Just stick it out, don’t take it personally and you’ll get better. But these next few weeks are going to suck. Be ready for it.”

I could see the slight look of fear behind his eyes when I said this - as if he knew this was the case, but was holding on to the hope that maybe he’d be the exception to the rule. He, of course, was not. In fact, it didn’t take long for him to get to his first error.

Works so much better in the “ON” position…

One of his first big mistakes (and still my favorite to date) was when I gave him 10 red onions to slice thin on the slicer on his first morning. I showed him how I wanted them peeled, and then set the slicer thickness for him for how thick I wanted them. He came back a few minutes later to show me some of what he had produced, to check if the quality was OK. The thickness (or thinness depending on your perspective) was fine, but the onions were ragged looking around the edges. I was wondering if maybe the slicer was dirty, or the blade dull, so I joined him back at the slicer, and he showed me what he was doing. He pushed the onion across the blade once, and I instantly saw the problem. I calmly and wordlessly reached over, and flipped the slicer switch to “On”. The blade on the slicer sprung to life and was ready to produce beautiful clean slices. He looked at me, and I said, “Try it now…” I think he was embarrassed enough that I didn’t have to drive that lesson home any further…

But all in all, he is an eager and hard worker. And while he occasionally does things that make me shake my head, I still see myself in him too much to become overly abusive towards him. All the same though, it makes me wonder: did the fact that my ass was put through the wringer make me a better chef faster; or is it a case that one will excel at their own pace regardless of how they’re pushed?

All I know is, the scars are still fresh enough in me to be too hard on him. I just hope I don’t stunt his culinary growth as a result…

Chef Matt

My lovely wife, Caroline, was our designated driver - which makes sense seeing as how she doesn’t drink - and in return we took her to two of her favorite spots along the way. So what follows is a quick (completely unsolicited) review of the wineries and other spots we hit along the way, just so you know what to do if you ever find yourself traveling in this area. (Wow, I feel like Duncan Hines…)

First stop was a relatively new winery on the VA scene, Pearmund Cellars. Their selection was large, and the staff was welcoming and friendly. The wines were generally good with a slightly too acidic Sauvignon Blanc, a nice reserve Chardonnay, and a very interesting “Vin de Sol” which actually ages on the roof of the winery in the sun for two years before bottling and comes out like a sherry. I have been several times before, and I’m sure I will be back again.

For the next haul, we drove down to a winery I have been past, but never in before, Burnley Vineyards. We were greeted by a very large dog as we walked in, and needless to say the smell of dog permeated everything we tried to enjoy about the wines. What a change in attitude this was for us as the lady pouring for us acted as if she couldn’t stand the fact that we were there to taste her wines! Add to that the fact that almost all of them were undrinkable, and well, we left there about as fast as was possible. In all fairness, the Rivanna White was quite nice, with a crisp front and dry finish that was enjoyable enough that we bought a bottle despite our other instincts.

If you can find a better bagel, tell me.

Driving into Charlottesville, we stopped off at the first destination for my wife, Bodo’s Bagels. For those of you who are not alums of UVA, you might not know this secret, but these are the best bagels south of the Mason-Dixon Line, bar none. I have been to New York several times. I’ve had good bagels, I’ve had bad bagels, and I’ve had downright horrible bagels. Heck, I’ve ever tired to make bagels on a few occasions. These are the best I’ve ever had without a doubt. So even though we made it seem like a present for Caroline, who loves them as well, it was a fine break for all of us as well.

Keswick Vineyards was the next stop on our tour and we were thrilled to once again be greeted by pleasant staff in the setting of a lovely tasting room and garden. A neat feature of this winery was how they had a wine that was called “Consensus” which was put together by the members of their own wine club. While this is a really cool feature that would make me want to be a part of that club, the wine itself tasted like something only a committee could come up with: uninspired and boring. The rest of the wines were nice, but a tad overpriced for their level of quality. I did however buy myself a waiter’s corkscrew there, as I have needed one at work for some time now since my last one broke.

Since I can’t find an image of their logo online, here is a picture of their cool main building - complete with turret!

Through a rough rainstorm we proceeded on to a personal favorite winery of mine: Horton Vineyards. They have a Viognier (the 2006) that I feel is the best Viognier ever produced by any Virginia vineyard to date. (And I’ve been drinking them for quite a while now.) But that’s not all, as they had a remarkable Vidal Blanc, and their Stonecastle White was an incredible bargain at only $10/bottle. Throw in the fact that tastings are free, and this is a winery I always try to visit when I’m in the area. Just beware that they have so many wines to try, you’ll need a designated driver just after visiting this one alone! However, with the wide range of selection, incredible quality and fabulous values to their wines, I’m personally willing to dub Horton with the title: Best Winery in Virginia.

Practically across the street from Horton (which is about all we could stumble at this point) is Barboursville Vineyard. A lovely vineyard with friendly staff and (I’ve heard) a wonderful restaurant, this vineyard is one of the most awarded in all of Virginia. Unfortunately, they are letting the awards go to their heads (like the likewise fabulous Chrysalis Vineyards in Middleburg, VA) and they are pricing their wines way too high as a result. Their whites are very good, their reds are mediocre. But to look at the price tag, you’d think you were buying Chateau Neuf de Pape. While always worth a visit, I rarely find their wines worth the price, so again I left without buying anything.

It was time to call it a day for us, but we couldn’t help but be thankful to Caroline for driving for us, so we took the lovely route 20 all the way to Fredericksburg where were stopped in at the best coffee shop in Virginia, Hyperion Espresso. Unlike the unpalatable burnt flavor that accompanies every cup of coffee in a Starbuck’s, Hyperion’s coffee is rich, smooth and well-crafted. I’ve never had anything short of an excellent cup of coffee there, and today was no exception.

So there you have it, a wide range of fun stops in Virginia’s heartland that will get you drunk, full and buzzed all in an afternoon! If you can tell me a better way to spend my day off, and to have fun with my family while doing it, I’d love to hear it!

Chef Matt

Not my idea of good party snacks.

Any other night, and I probably would have had a few chips (love that flavor!) and excused myself quickly in search of a party that at least maybe offered something a tad more palatable. But in this instance, I dove right in to all these incredibly mouth-puckering foods since it was important for me to have a frame of reference.

Perhaps you need some reference as well at this point…

See, this was no ordinary social gathering. This was a “miracle fruit” tasting. This fruit, which is really called “miracle fruit” is a West African fruit that, when eaten, re-wires how your brain interprets sour flavors rendering them sweet for the next half hour or so. Supposedly you can eat lemons, drink black coffee, even shoot straight vinegar, and not notice the incredible sour/bitter flavors that normally accompany those foods.

Miracle fruits on the tree. They’re about the size of a large coffee bean.

I had recently heard about this fruit from my good friend Mike who sent me the New York Times article all about this fruit, and in a coincidence worthy of the Celestine Prophecy, I was invited to this party for the little fruit just one week later.

So back to the frame of reference. Having tried all these incredibly tart foods, we all were given a single miracle fruit and were told to chew it up and let it sit in our mouth for about a minute. The fruit itself is actually quite bitter and had an alum-like effect that robbed my mouth of all saliva for a moment. But once the fruit was down, there seemed to be no residual unpleasant taste in my mouth. It seemed hard to believe that this would have any effect on these foods in front of me.

But with the first sip of coffee, I was a believer. The coffee’s strong flavors were instantly mellowed out making it smooth and sweet. As if I had added cream and sugar, but it was still black as tar. The lemons tasted like Country Time lemonade; the rhubarb was as sweet as the best of springtime pies, and the raspberries - which were already sweet to begin with - now tasted like cloyingly sweet candy. The truly amazing change were the salt and vinegar potato chips. My brain could smell the artificial vinegar smell and my mouth was prepared for the intense rush of sourness as a result. But the chip was sweet and salty instead - as if they had miraculously become sweet potato chips instead. It was hard to wrap my mind around the concept of what things should be tasting like, as compared to what was actually going on in my mouth.

Wanting the full experience, I decided to chug a shot of straight apple cider vinegar. This would indeed be the real “acid test”. It was only slightly harsh, but the overall taste was more similar to apple cider than what I would have expected if I drank straight vinegar at any other time.

If this fruit is so amazing, how come we haven’t heard of it before? Actually, the miracle fruit has been known to the Western world since the 1800’s, but back in the 1970’s, the FDA decided that the miracle fruit was unsafe as a food additive. (Was this political wrangling by the sugar lobby? Who knows?…) But the whole fruit has remained legal, and primarily grown in Florida here in the US. But getting your hands on them is difficult and relatively expensive.

“U-P-Y-O-U-R-S…. What a rude Ouija Board!”

Is it a life-changing experience? No, not really. The effect wears off after about half an hour, and fortunately, the effects abate themselves slowly. (It would be a nasty wake-up call to suddenly down a shot of vinegar and realize you had lost your super-powers…) However, if you ever have the means, I totally recommend it as a fun way to spend an evening with some friends. Like the first time you use a Ouija Board, it is a curious oddity that is fun in a unique way. But then you go back to enjoying salt and vinegar potato chips the way they were meant to be had - in all their salty-sour glory.

Chef Matt

P.S. A word of warning though… After eating large quantities of nothing but sour (acidic) foods for half an hour without noticing it, the result on your stomach is predictably upsetting. Better have some milk, or some Tums on hand for afterwards.

Let’s get started. You’ll need the following all ready to go (since this all comes together fast):

click any of these photos to enlarge

• 15 (or so) littleneck clams - scrubbed clean
  
• 2 Tbsp rough chopped basil
  
• 1 1/2 Tbsp chopped garlic
  
• 1/4 cup chopped tomatoes
  
• 2 Tbsp Olive Oil
  
• Generous plash of white wine
  
• Kosher salt
  
• dash of red pepper flakes (not pictured)
  
• 4 oz linguini or other long pasta (I’m using squid ink spaghetti since squid ink pasta goes so well with seafood dishes.)

Oil and garlic - the base for all good cooking.

Of course you’ll want to start a pot of salted water boiling for the pasta. In fact, if you have the pasta water boiling, and the pan and oil for the clams heated, you can pretty much cook both simultaneously in the same amount of time. So drop the pasta into the water, and throw the garlic in the pan. (If it’s not sizzling on contact, your pan is not hot enough…)

Of course, if you just dump all the pasta and boiling water all over the measuring cup, you’re on your own…

One ingredient you may need later on in the recipe is some of the pasta water. If the pasta is too dry and needs more sauce, this is how you are going to add it. But I often have the problem that I drain the pasta, sending all the pasta water down the drain and then remember I needed some of the water. Here is my trick to remember how to save some. When you put your colander in the sink for the pasta, place a measuring cup in it. When the magic time comes to drain the pasta, you’ll remember to scoop out a cup for yourself - which I promise is more than enough.

I always carefully measure when I add booze to food.

Once the garlic has a little color to it, you pretty much just want to throw everything else in. Tomatoes, clams, basil, red pepper, and a big old splash of white wine. Give the pan a few shakes to mix everything together, and then slap a cover on it. The wine will start to boil, and the steam will make the clams pop open to reveal their lovely meat inside.

All I did was throw it all in a pan, and it looks like this good that fast…

When steam is coming out from the side of the lid, you’re probably pretty close to where you need to be. Take of the lid and take a peek. If the clams are ALL open, then keep the lid off. If only some are open, put the lid back on and keep cooking. Of course if all the other clams are open and one is just refusing to budge, then it probably is a bad clam, and should be discarded.

Remember, if they aren’t open by now, you don’t want to eat them.

Take the clams out of the pan and place them in a separate bowl. The easiest way to do this is to use tongs. Grip them by placing one of the tongs inside the clam, and grip one of the two shells. Then be sure to tip the clam to drain all the natural juice out of the clam and into the sauce. When all of the clams are out, the pasta should be just about done. (You’ve been keeping a close eye on it, right?…) Save some of the liquid, and drain the pasta in your colander.

This is where the magic happens. Add the pasta to the pan with the clam sauce. See, the pasta (assuming you didn’t rinse it, which you should NEVER do) is coated with starch that is just dying to absorb some kind of sauce. So the pasta slides into the pan, grabs all this wonderfully reducing sauce, and with just a few tosses, it’s ready to go. If the sauce is too wet, cook it down a little more, if it’s too dry, this is where that pasta water will come in handy.

Place the pasta on a large plate, and top with all the open clams. And be sure to pour any juices in the bowl with clams over the pasta. That stuff is pure flavor, so don’t waste it! Serve with the same white wine you cooked with, and you have a meal that you’ve thrown together in less than 10 minutes, and yet could be served to the finest company.

Enjoy.

Yeah, this is the kind of lunch I have on my day off…

Chef Matt

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